Eulen-Steine

Petit hibou peint à la main. Tellement mignon! Alors va faire ça. Brooke Baird Wills rock party party?

One of the great increasing mysteries of today's modern boat building is the high-tech gobble-de-gook that the average boat builder is expected to wade through as the time will paint the boat after the horrific amount of grinding, fairing and hard work are (usually) over and the fruits of your work now requires a shiny deep shine that the painting now promises to bring. This part is in my opinion one of the best parts of boat building, the goal! (Well, at least the beginning of the goal!)

Painting a boat used to be a relatively simple task. All that was needed was a nice dry day, one of dad's brushes, some tulips, a roll of masking tape, a piece of pink primer left from the decorative and a half gallon of shiny blue enamel paint from the local hardware store ... they were the days!

Not so today, my friends! The unsuspecting boat builder who bends to the local chandlery or superstore is best prepared for the worst. Not only will he (or she) face a huge financial attack on the wallet, but a sensational bulky selection of high-tech whiz wow balderdash as the (generally) uninformed store assistant continues to throw in its general direction in the wrong hope that you will give in under the stress and buy several liters of the latest poluretanicalslitheryaminomolecular goop that just comes in. For example, you & # 39; II is facing trade names such as "Interlux Interthane Coating". I mean, come on, it sounds like a new space recorder! This is bloody color! There are many others but I am sure you get the core of what I say.

Another example of the kind of thing that drives me is that you can expect to buy several liters of an isocyanate two-pack marine polyurethane paint to be happy to say that it is illegal to spray it unless you have the right licensed preparation for to do it, drone drone !! I guess they have to make new names to follow the new paint processing paintings to charge up to $ 150 a liter for some of these new captive colors! What the hell have they discovered that it is so expensive to put in this thing? I was under the impression that the paint was a few liters of linseed oil, dried, some desiccant and some ounces of pigment for color ... can I really be so incredible?

BACK TO THE BASES

So why do we paint wooden boats? Or any other boat for that matter? The first part of that question is easy. Boats look much smarter and better if they light up and gleam a little ... it's just human nature after all. The second part of that question is: We want to protect it. Okay, from what? Well stones if you don't paint it, right? - wrong! Wood left to its own devices does not rot. Just wood the route as a result of its environment. There are several cases of how ordinary untreated wood can last for centuries as long as it is in the right environment. There are basically just a few elements that start wood cutting. Biological attack from spores, fungi, temperature, high humidity or total absorption, physical attack from marine drillers and crustaceans that allow ingress of all other elements mentioned above.

Don't forget that contaminated water can break down timber to the point where it will be rotated .... We add chemical attack to that list as well. So, considering all these very compelling reasons, we protect our boat by painting it to coat it completely against these assaults.

PREPARATION OF TIMBER

The actual preparation of wood can cover a variety of requirements. If your boat is a new building, you don't have to go through many of the preparatory steps that an older boat may have to go through. With some forms of boat building where a boat has been built with another method such as planing or cold casting, we paint the boat as if it were a fiberglass boat, because either layers of fiberglass cover the timber or that timber has been coated with epoxy that does not allow conventional colors to stick to it properly. But if we want to protect coniferous wood, we use another thanks. Timber in its natural state has millions of thin hollow tubes running through it, made of cellulose in its natural form. We must seal these tubes to prevent water from entering them. Therefore, we seal and cover the wood first of all.

The first thing we do is to clean and remove any loose and spotted or damaged paint plus any dirt left on the hull - sounds easy if you say it but it must be done! If needed (and most often it is) degrease the hull with a proprietary color degreaser after removing all dust, preferably with a vacuum cleaner. Do not forget that it is not absolutely necessary to get the whole hull back to bare wood, just dry, clean, grease and dust-free.

FILLING AND IMPERFECTIONS

It is obvious that not many wood products are perfect on the outside. There are many spots, cracks, imperfections and splits both large and small to handle the filling and grinding of them before starting the boat. It is a bit of a chore but the time spent here will reward you with a boat that will surely look better and have a longer life. Some people fill these holes and flaws in wood with epoxy fillers but that is not a good idea. Sometime later, for example, when the boat has to undergo a repair, it is very difficult to remove the epoxy from a fixing hole. It is best to use some kind of real wood filler that dries hard and fast but it is never so difficult that it cannot be removed later. For example, the painter's glass compound is a fairly hard-set soft paste that can be quickly applied, sanded and painted satisfactorily. Carvel boats usually have their seams filled justice with a special seam composition after the boat has been founded. When the boat is filled andaired smooth and all the dust removed, we are ready to add a certain color. Remember that the difference between a professional color job and an amateur is the preparation!

Träpreservativ

There are two tanker schools about treating softwood with wood preservatives. I have heard stories that primers and paintings do not follow many of them. In my case, I have never personally had what happened to me, so I am generally using them. Nevertheless, I am convinced that in many cases where the paint refuses to adhere to wood, the wood has not been drawn properly after the application. There is a certain percentage of humidity level that each timber has (and most of them differ slightly), where color of any description will simply not stick. It can be up to fifteen percent in some timber. Above all, make sure your wood is dry enough to allow any paint or filler to follow it. Also, remember that salt deposits on timber hold water and keep it moist ... If your boat was in salt water, wash it fresh before finishing the painting. When and only when your wood preservative is dry is the next step:

PRIMER

The first layer of primer that goes on your hull is metal gray primer. It is a good primer to use because it consists of millions of microscopic flat plates lying on top of each other, giving water a very difficult time to pass but the ... Pink primer has, for example, circular molecules of substances that allow water to intervene much faster ... fact! Gray primers also contain some oils and most have anti-molding agents included (biocides for you and me) We put two layers of gray primer over the waterline and three, no less, below it.

SOME OTHER OBSERVATIONS ON PRIMERS

There is a whole world of color primers out there and confusion about their properties is very common. For basic dry wood products, the gray metallic primers are good as previously explained. Also, many oil-based primers from well-known companies are also very good and will do the job perfectly. However, Hi-build primers must be contacted with caution and I must say that I have never personally been too good with them. Most contain titanium dioxide (like talcum powder for us a lot) and even when completely cured, you can absorb large amounts of moisture that can prevent a really good color adhesion. To avoid this, only paint high-build primers on good, clear dry days and avoid excess moisture levels. Then apply the topcoats as soon as possible to seal them. Note that the high-altitude primers are a soft type of color and can be badly affected by scuffing over rocky or straight beaches and even when they are started from boat trailers. When grinding, these primers should remember that large clouds of white dust are released, so be aware of where you sand and wear appropriate safety masks.

TOPCOATS

Again, there are many types to choose from. Let's get two packs out of the way first. TWO-PACK POLYURETHANES must be applied over a two-pack epoxy undercoat first of all. They have a fantastic finish and it is good but you have to be absolutely sure that the wood below will not move because the color cures so hard that it can and will crack (strip planks and cold cast boats are your best bet here ... except of course from glass boats). The main reason is that wooden boats are moving or working & # 39; as it is known. You may well get away with it if your wooden boat has been glazed from new .... not glazed over later as a preventative method to stop leakage. Rarely treated boats that dry out properly and are still susceptible to movement that wood inside the glass, either root, because it was wet or it dries out too much and shrinks. Even boats that have been shaded properly, that is, lists of timber glued between the planks instead of being caulked, stand for a reasonable chance of not moving.

Okay what else? A package or single polyurethane paintings can be a good choice for a top coat ... they are almost as shiny and as durable as the two packages but not really! However, they are cheaper and much easier to apply than the two packages ... there are a lot of them out there, so little research is needed plus your own personal choice ... I can't get involved in a slang match about who is best! But remember that most of the major known paint manufacturer's products are usually okay! It's your call!

So next on my list are marine enamels. Again it pays to remember that something with MARINE in front of it is usually expensive ... a good place to avoid in this endeavor is the big hardware chain stores that sport one or two colors in this category and I have fallen for it myself until now . That's the name we're looking for!

Even with decent quality marble, some whites have become known for yellowing with age and the way around this is to buy the white-white colors as cream or buff. My last choice in Marine Enamels is a relatively newcomer ... a water based enamel. I have never personally used anyone but I have heard some good reports and there must be some benefits to them, fast cleaning for one and you can even drink the thinners!

ASSORTED CHOICES
There are some types of color systems that are different from the above and as usual they will probably draw a lot of flat from the types that love to write to the editor for some reason or the other. I mainly suspect that something is not entirely conventional. Each of the following colors has its different uses and attributes.

HOUSE PAINT ENAMELS

Over the years, the quality of house paint enamelled has increased dramatically to the point where many boats I know paint their boats with it. It is a little softer (and definitely cheaper) than most simple pack polyurethanes and some colors, mostly the darker shades, tend to fade earlier than others. But the fact remains that they can be a great choice, especially if you own a small boat and don't mind painting it every few years .... cheap to buy, easy to apply!

WATER-BASED ACRYLIC

A few years ago you had not dreamed of painting your boat with acrylic paint .... it would have been stripped off in large strips. However, this does not apply today. My own boat, The NICKY J has been painted with Wattyl's acrylic semi-gloss "CANE" and it's really amazing. I used gloss for hull and semi-gloss for the tires over white epoxy primer package and it has been really good. Never once did it look like delamination. I paint the boat once a year with a roll and it takes less than a day ... and she is forty meters long! It's another choice!

Well there are your most important color choices but I urge you to remember one thing ... preparation is king ... it will surely save a lot of money in the long run.

HOW TO USE YOUR GOAL

There are, of course, three main methods for applying your colors; Spray, brush and roll. It is another that many use, a combination of the last two, rolling and tipping, we handle it later.

Let's look at spraying. There are several prerequisites for a decent spray job. These are usually a decent workshop that is complete with suction fans and a half decent ventilation with good spray equipment (cheapo underpowered things are not cut the mustard) and most importantly, appropriate and safe safety equipment. There are always exceptions to the rule and there a chap that works in Edge's yard out in the weather and he does a fantastic job ... You also have to look at the weather, high humidity is not good and even where the spraying is going .. Not over anyone's car that is so often the case! A good excess of color is lost and wasted in the process. If you have a driving need for your boat to look like your car, you spray for you! Oh yes, it's fast (ish) too!

Hand brushing can produce incredible results if you are patient and also know what you are doing. I've seen boats that at first glance look like they've just been sprayed to find out they were hand painted with brush ....... Dust-free atmosphere and bloody good brushes are an absolute must here.

First of all, you roll in front of & # 39; roll and tip & # 39; method. This requires that two people work together as a team. One rolls the paint thinly and the other closely follows with a decent brush and tips & # 39; out the bubbles left by the roller - incredibly good finish can be obtained with this method.

A warning sign, no matter what method you use. Don't be tempted to retouch runs or falls in color or you will destroy the finish .... wait until the color is completely discharged and deal with it! It is tempting but color always looks like gels faster than you would think!

A SUMMARY

There are many facets to the successful painting of a boat. We cannot be good at all and you have to choose the method that suits you for your own abilities. Much depends on the facilities you have at your disposal. Some people have the garden to work in others can have huge sheds and even access to a warehouse! I will say that some basic rules apply to painting even the smallest boat. Too often too clever or too sophisticated is often harmful to what you are trying to achieve.

I've seen boats that cost twenty grand to paint and they were just really average ... why? Wrong choice of painter, that's why. If you choose a painter, it is not a crime to ask him to show some examples of his work. If he were to be fine it would be good ... there are plenty of chancers and cowboys about, be sure. All boats, each of them will need to retouch or even repaint within years. How long you get the money is the trick. If you do not put your newly painted boat in a museum or garage and lock it off, you can invest in that from day one will collect nicks, dings, scratches and scars, that is inevitable. Beware of the painter who tells, "Yes it will be ten grand, but it will leave you and I". The need for repainting is directly proportional to how poorly the boat is covered over the years. The only way to keep your boat perfect and perfect is never to put it in the dirty dirty water when it's done! Be realistic about your own abilities and expectations. Simple can be better in many cases.

A SIMPLE FORM FOR CALCULATING HOW MUCH YOU NEED (FOR A COAT)

This is interesting if not exactly accurate! But it gets very close. This only applies to brushing and rolling only NOT spraying. There is another formula for that and I don't know it!
FORMULA
ONE COAT = boat's total length x beam x 0.85
Divided per square meter covered per liter indicated on the color can be instructions.

If you can't work out, the color manufacturer will tell you if you call the company's hotline.

Over the years, wooden boats have survived the elements despite very raw and primitive forms of color. Many early ships simply stood in ascending, bitumen, turp and beeswax. An early Thames pram had survived for over a hundred years in perfect condition as she was originally used as a bitumen tanker !! The dark brown shiny surface was the most perfect example of preserved wood I've ever seen. One of the most interesting boats I ever saw was painted with fence paint ... the owner thought he had ever painted it once in thirty years! Another old boat builder I once knew told the secret to painting a wooden boat was to paint it with as many paint colors as you could afford!